Friday, November 28, 2008

Bariloche, Nov 26 - 28

Well, the 17 hour bus trip was every bit as comfortable as we had been led to believe, featuring dinner, breakfast and lunch, and even a game of Bingo as we neared Bariloche. The two American films screened on board, in English with Spanish subtitles, were amongst the worst offerings I have ever been subjected to. No doubt our future bus journeys will feature more cinematic triumphs.

As we neared Bariloche, which is in the ´Lake District´, it was already impossible not to draw comparisons with the South Island. We had been told as much, and a couple of lakes bear remarkable resemblances to Lakes Hawea and Wanaka.

Arriving at our hostel in Bariloche, we were delighted to find out hostel didn´t just have the ´lake views´it promised - it was actually on the lake front with a front lawn leading to the waters edge. The lake here is quite large, and reminds more of something in Fiordland - Lake Te Anau perhaps. The sun is beautifully warm and we take the opportunity to lie on the grass to wind down.





Bariloche is very much a ski resort town and reminds hugely of Queenstown - lots of stone and wooden buildings and activity, ski, and excursion shops everywhere. It is more expensive here than in other parts of Argentina - here everything is more-or-less the same price as in NZ.

We spend the next two days in a rental car, touring around the fine scenery all around. The first day it is unfortunately generally overcast and even rainy, but there is a ´good atmosphere´ in the car and the boys are enjoying a mini-roadie. The scenery continues to bear a strong resemblance to NZ - so much so that you need to remind yourself you are actually 10,000 km away.

The wind is up and it really whips up some decent chop on Lake Traful. Up at the main Mirador (viewing point) it feels very similar to standing on the deck of the ferry with a 50 kmm southerly blowing.





The woods and forests are very much like some parts of the West Coast, large trees in a sub-alpine environment with lots of rocky streams. It is, however, perhaps more ever-changing than NZ - with subtle changes in flora and topography. We manage to fall in to the midst of some major Argentinian classic car rally, so all the way back to Bariloche our Golf is overtaken by cars with their drivers bedecked in all manner of driving apparel.

Today we did our second tour, to Tronador which at 3,478m is the highest peak in the area. It is at the end of a 55km gravel road, but the trip is well worth it. The mountain spawns several impressive glaciers, but by far the most incredible is Ventisquero Negro (black glacier). Here the ash from Tronador (yes, it´s a volcano) is merged into the ice and it flows all the way down near the road. At its snout it breaks up into huge lumps of ice which are contained in a lake of sorts. It would be better described as some kind of soup. All very surreal and certainly unlike anything I have ever seen before.


So tonight is our last night here and with it being Friday it looks like a late night might be in order. Tomorrow we again take an overnight bus, this time a 14 hour effort to Puerto Madryn which is on the coast of Argentina. Here we know we will find a beach, but we have just been told it is too cold to swim. Doh ! Still, there´s whale watching and other activities and the town comes well recommended.

Until then, adios.

P.S. Photos added to other posts now. Cheers Stevo !

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